KC DOVER PHOTOGRAPHY

Let's Dance - 5th Annual Dance Parade

2011-06-02T19:59:00.003-04:00

I'm preparing for an upcoming trip to Italy to participate in a photography workshop led by David Wells and produced by Barbara Nelson. In the meanwhile, I'm checking my camera equipment and computer software and back-up. The 5th Annual New York City Dance Parade was held on 21 May 2011 (website) and I took a few video clips as well as a great number of photos with my Canon 7D with an attached Sennheiser stereo microphone . I will have to develop a steady hand and learn not to keep a tight grip for too long a period of time. Since then, I have purchased a monopod that rotates at the base to help support the camera. The camera functions were intuitive and easy to manage. I had browsed through the manual and studied the key functions, but it was more important to ensure that menu settings were set for what I wanted. The lighting conditions proved a challenge. The parade started at 1:00 pm in deep shadow at my location on Broadway at 21st Street and by 3:00 pm I was in bright sun.

Dance Parade-Short Ver from Karen Corrigan on Vimeo.

Packing for the trip is proving to be the more difficult task. How exactly does one pack light, yet have all your essentials? The group was given a checklist by David and all items will be used at some point during the workshop. However, my interest in learning to shoot video has added a few things to the packing. The Sennheiser mic, for example; it's tiny, weightless but worth taking along.

How the new Olympus XZ-1 handles spring weather

2011-05-13T13:36:00.000-04:00

I purchased the10MP XZ-1 almost as soon as it was available. It has the features I was looking for in a point and shoot, carry everywhere, camera. The top selling feature was the i.Zuiko f1.8 lens that ranges from 6mm to 24mm (35mm equivalent: 28mm to 112mm). In addition to being very compact and lightweight, the other features are fairly standard on most high-end point-and-shoot cameras: RAW file capability, ISO 100-6400 and HD movie mode. I’ve been having a great fun with the six art filters, especially the grainy black-and-white and the dynamic tone.

So far, spring has been cloudy and rainy in New York City, and I have put the XZ-1 to the test under these conditions. The menus and controls are intuitive and easy to use. Below is a shot of the wet pavement taken with the dynamic tone art filter. A yellow tone enhances the high contrast effect of the scene.

This image demonstrates the soft focus filter which, to my mind, worked well for the rainy day image.

Here are two more rainy day captures. After a light downpour, I’m attracted to what is reflected back from a curb puddle and the shiny surface of the tables stacked together.

This images highlights the attraction of a lightweight, carry everywhere, camera. On a day when the weather was splendid, I came upon this image and could not pass it by without recording it with my XZ-1.

Day and night -- black and white -- using the grainy BW filter. My curiosity about the different qualities of light was answered with surprising results. I must remember these effects for future use.

Lastly, here is another dynamic tone image. I took several shots from this vantage point given a one-chance opportunity. Although it is not done using the HDR process, it has a distinctive effect of its own.

More to Say Regarding a Walkabout

2010-08-24T15:47:00.003-04:00

A Walkabout is similar to leaving home with your camera at your side intending to capture life as it impinges upon you. A lack of destination is inferred, but usually I have in mind a direction, or a general destination. At a recent talk held at the B&H Event Space, the speaker mentioned something that should be routine for every photographer. Go out and practice to hone your skills.

I said to myself, a Walkabout could be considered practice. Yet the time expended must be secondary to scanning the horizon, rather in New York, the sidewalks, for a sight worthy of capture. I almost want to say, on film; but those days have nearly passed.

On my web site, I have a gallery entitled “WALKABOUT: New York.” My intent during my search is to capture images that convey a feeling, a design, or a color. Refining my technical skills has always been an unconscious component, but now will be more top-of-mind.

So, as reinforced by the speaker, to capture the near-perfect image under pressure, your skills should come into play instantly, with little thought required. While on a Walkabout, tick off a checklist: gauge the lighting, look for the best perspective, confirm the right exposure and speed settings, frame, and press the shutter. In other words, practice and learn to be prepared before the near-perfect shot passes before your viewfinder. So, when on assignment, or in my case, while traveling, get the shot you want with the least effort.

Why do I use the term “near-perfect.” Well, I know of nothing that is perfect. In terms of a photo, be prepared for 98% perfection in an instant.

After leaving B&H this particular day, I was attracted by window reflections and others things along 34th Street while walking east toward Broadway.

I need to practice my "panning" technique a bit more, but I like this image anyway.

That’s the Word for That: Crowdsourcing

2010-08-17T17:10:00.002-04:00

It just seemed to fit. When I recently read, The Rise of Crowdsourcing, by Jeff Howe (Wired, 06 2006), I immediately knew that it was relevant to a forum discussion thread posted for my photography organization. Crowdsourcing is the act of outsourcing tasks, traditionally performed by an employee or, to a large group of people or community (a crowd), through an open call (Wikipedia). Following its controversial initial appearance in 2006, I accept that the term is not frequently used anymore. It’s complex, but, along with “citizen journalist,” says what needs to be said. Take note of the examples below and a few contentions.

On July 30, 2010, The New York Times, posted the following (excerpted) on the N.Y./Region page of their website (http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/07/30/cover-the-waterfront-this-means-you/):

"We want you to head out to your favorite waterfront spots … and send us photographs of what you see. We’re not looking for posed pictures (hi, Grandma) but for you to document the scene: human, animal, vegetable, mineral, other.
When we put all your images together, we hope they’ll form a mass portrait of one coastal moment in (summer) time, infinitely richer than any one study or newspaper story. They’ll be published on City Room next week, along with vignettes from a batch of student- and citizen-journalists we’ve enlisted to help out. (F.Y.I.: The resulting “waterfront portrait” can be found at: http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/08/06/the-waterfront-covered/)"

The weather was nice that weekend and I needed an outing. I decided to walk along the East River promenade nearest me. I share only with you a few images of the afternoon’s stroll.

I had first read about this “call-for-entry” on the forum from a member who said:

“I pass this along with great reservation. On the one hand this comes across as a cool way to involve the public in reportage of their communities. On the other, it is yet another horrifying wake-up call regarding harsh realities for professional photographers.
After all, why should a company pay for content when all they have to do, in order to be flooded with images, is put out a call over the Internet? They don't even have to pay a photo researcher to find existing photos!”

I don’t disagree, the point is well-taken. On one side, a business wishes to strengthen its brand and relationship with its readers. The New York Times, a large corporation, offers no compensation other than a possible opportunity to have an image appear on their website. On the other side, professional photographers have been affected by this trend in sourcing photographs. Over four years ago, the iStockphoto purchase by Getty Images, Inc., attested to improvements in digital cameras and the ease of transmission over the Internet. Many other companies are following the precedent set by Getty and others modifying their business strategies.

Browsing my tweets the same week, I read this offer from The Art Institute of Chicago:

"The two most important developments in photography in the first half of the 20th century were the emergence of lasting artistic traditions and the rise of mass-circulation picture magazines. Henri Cartier-Bresson was a leading figure in both domains. In celebration of [a] landmark retrospective, we invite you to participate in a Cartier-Bresson photo contest (by September 20, 2010) (This exhibit recently appeared in NY at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.)."

Cartier-Bresson is my favorite photographer. To my mind, the proffered prizes (except for the exhibition catalogue, I live in NY, not Chicago) are inconsequential compared to the prospect of a few of my images being reviewed by knowledgeable and dedicated curators. Yet, as with The New York Times, the contest is being held to enhance their brand and to build a better relationship with the photographic community (photos are to be uploaded to a Flickr group; official contest rules: www.artic.edu/aic/drawing_rules/drawing_rules.html).

I’ve become intrigued by the various points of view on the subject of crowdsourcing. I searched the Internet for other commentaries and learned that studies currently are being conducted, along with other efforts to validate the concept. By other names, of course. It applies not only to photographers, citizen journalist, businesses seeking new relevance, but to other areas utilizing communal labor to accomplish a task.

A person will participate in “calls-for-entry” for one of two reasons: for financial gain or for peer recognition. What differs is an elusive sense of fairness. Sending some images to The Art Institute of Chicago would not feel like a sell-out to me and it would not deprive a professional photographer of a job assignment. In fact, they can participate too.

I don’t want to put too much stress on something that is definitely evolving and will reach its own accommodation among parties in time and in a form amenable to all. Photographers, as well as businesses, will have to adapt themselves to dramatic changes in conducting business; and will have to take advantage of marketing opportunities offered by the Internet and new technologies. Comments welcome. Let me hear what you think.

Dryer and Cooler Weather

2010-07-27T20:32:00.001-04:00

It has only been two days, but Daisy (my cat) has already shifted away from one of her sleeping/slumber spots in the apartment. She is not on the floor by the window where she has been for the past few weeks, but has reclaimed one of her favorite spots. On my computer chair. I was happy to see this development as the humid/hot weather has been a drain on her energy. And my energy too.

When Daisy took her position, natural mid-day sunlight was coming through the window and lighted her in a very nice way. I decided to follow the urge to photograph her, which I have not done in a few years. She has been with Steve and me for about six years and has become a bit settled compared to her frisky "youth".

I like the companionship, even now she is sitting in the chair next to me and I'm sitting in Steve's computer chair.

Hang in there everyone. Only a few more weeks until the end of summer.

More Thoughts about Last Summer

2010-07-24T17:46:00.000-04:00

Bastille Day came and went a few weeks ago, and I missed the traditional military parade. It would have been nice to be in Paris to see the parade again as I did not position myself very well among the many onlookers last summer. And yet the parade this year was rained on. I watched on television as the marchers staunchly ignored the rain. I learned that the skies cleared just in time for the traditional fireworks at the site the Eiffel Tower.

Bastille Day -- Looking up to see the parachutists descend

Questions answered and safety for all during the parade

I have memories of strolling the banks of the Seine during Paris Plages where tons of sand are carted in for the pleasure of Parisians who can’t leave town. Just like here, there are many outdoor events to choose amongst. Although the weather is still sweltering here in the NYC, now I’m content to wait until November when I hope to visit during Mois de Photo. Most museums and galleries feature photographic work by both known and unknown photographers.

Paris Plages -- For Sun and Leisure

Paris Plages -- Musical Event

Out with friend for tea and coffee

Cause for a smile

The Three Muses -- Aristide Malliol

To see more images and the July-August 2009 blogs, look under “Older Posts” at the bottom of the current posts.

Dreamscape

2010-07-24T15:59:00.002-04:00

A group people standing there had to be at a certain destination by 12 o’clock. If we were going in the same direction, they could give me a ride part of the way. Possibly, I had to be somewhere by 12 o’clock too. I jolt awake to look at the clock. It’s 11:01 a.m. I lie stunned at the reality of the time, the heat, and the pending appointment. Must shower, must feed Daisy. She languorously glides against my legs as she herself is awakening from sleep. At 11:35 a.m. I limp down the five flights of stairs to the front door to the street. As I step through, I recognize the small circular discolorations on the steps and sidewalk pavement. I race through the tiny rain drops until I reach the bus shelter, missing most of them except for one or two slamming against my face and blouse. Who needs an umbrella? Then, bigger drops with more wetting power begin to fall. Good timing though; there is a bus coming.

This summer in New York has been a trial of will for me. During the short bus trip, wiper blades scraping the bus’s window, I remember a day from last summer. Weather-wise, it was a similar day: an overcast gloomy sky threatening rain showers. After breakfast at a café, I was going to shop for food stuffs to stock the refrigerator. Upon leaving the café, there was the sound of music nearby that was attracting people.

I am near Rue Mouffetard, 5th arrondissement, Paris. A Sunday Bal is in progress. Curiosity turns to pleasure as I step through the crowd with my camera, watching the Parisians and other tourist enjoying themselves. A Bal is a traditional get-together of musicians and singers who perform for neighborhood residents. The attendant citizens can pick up song sheets to sing along or join in the spontaneous dancing. It was quite unexpected and added immensely to my visit last summer.

Musicians

Dancers

A Few Hours in the Lowlands

2010-07-24T15:42:00.000-04:00

On an outing to the lowlands of New York City (a.k.a., Brooklyn), the moist hot air filled my lungs and dampened my clothing. Admittedly, I had written directions to 9 Noll Street, but reconnoitering the nearly empty streets from the subway was as amazing as being in Naples because of the wonderful wall paintings on many buildings. My ultimate objective was to see the “Urbanity” exhibit at the Bushwick Senior Citizen Center. The show was curated by Daryl-Ann Saunders, a dedicated photographer and curator who will be expanding her residency at the Center into a long-term project which will narrate the experiences of long-time residents of the Bushwick section of Brooklyn. My hat’s off to her and best wishes.
This particular Saturday (July 10th), an Artist Talk was scheduled, to be presented both in English and Spanish, and offered the opportunity for my tiny adventure to the lowlands. Send a “shout out” to Daryl-Ann for a great project.

Taking the train on 14th Street, Manhattan

Arrived in Brooklyn, Morgan Ave. Station

Very eye-catching mural

Looming thunderstorm forecast for the afternoon

A light moment between the English statement and the Spanish translation

After the Artist Talk

Just happened to like that smile!

Was there something on my mind as I was returning home?

It's been in the news for a few months.

Sculpture

Back at the Morgan Ave. station.

The train home arrived in less than 1 minute.

A Busy Saturday

2010-07-24T15:07:00.002-04:00

Passing by two women going in different directions, one exclaims in a loud voice, “Thanks for coming to my ‘hood.” I couldn’t help but smile to myself. The Gramercy area of New York City is not what one would typically think of as being a “’hood”. On a recent Saturday, I was doing some errands and had my camera with me, so I decided to take some photos of my neighborhood.

Blue skies, moderate temperatures.

One of my favorite streets, Irving Place.

A stop for coffee at a Starbucks.

Serious shopping starts at the Farmers' Market in Union Square.

Shopping for Daisy at the Petco, Union Square.

Then some plain grocery shopping.

I pass a cafe where soccer enthusiasts are watching a game.

NYC 13th Precinct; the flag is on display every day.

Back to New York

2010-06-03T22:48:00.003-04:00

It's the day of our long haul back to New York. After the previous long grueling day, we fell asleep early. Steve and I had to get up early to catch our bus to the airport in Catania, Sicily’s second largest city after Palermo. There were not too many days when we got up and out early before we wanted to do so, even to get the continental breakfasts provided by the hotels. However, today we raced through breakfast, trudged down the hill to the bus terminal, then joined others who were waiting to board the bus to the airport.

I was immediately drowsy once the bus was rolling, downhill and onward, and I dozed most of the hour and an half, except for bumps in the road, new people getting on the bus at other stops (some other early risers who were notably perfumed), and people getting off once we reached the center of Catania. The driver polled the remaining passengers to make sure each one was headed to the airport. Hmm, the voice of experience. With the frequent droop of my eyelids, I had missed the countryside, typically filled with orange trees (have I mentioned before the dark RED juicy, delicious oranges).

As mentioned before, the airport routine is necessary, stressful and patience the ultimate requirement -- no liquids or gels in the carryon luggage; ooh! my computer didn’t show up on the scan, send it through again. We can keep our shoes on, but here in this particular airport there were signs posted along the queue requesting that we remove our jackets and coats before reaching the container conveyer and screeners.

Catania to Rome; Sicily to mainland Italy and it was a race to catch our connecting flight within less than an hour. Not too much of a real challenge, though. Follow the overhead brightly color-coded signs to gate area “G” pass “C”, “D”, “E” and “F” (far too many fancy shops go by; but let‘s do get a newspaper), board a connection transport, then up an escalator to “G” gates to G09. Where is the nearest restroom; that one is closed? Once aboard and buckled in, the captain announces slight delays for departure.

I should have selected the other meal choice -- pasta instead of chicken. The coffee was good, however.

Last Day in Sicily

2010-06-02T16:39:00.002-04:00

On our last evening in Italy, I watched as the sun slipped slowly below the horizon with a pale afterglow. Here over the bay the lingering light is a cyan blue with just a touch of pink. Soon a string of lights from houses and road lamps along the coast will start to twinkle in the haze.

For the past three days, Steve and I have been in Taormina; a small town clinging to the side of a mountain, not far from Mt. Etna, Sicily‘s active volcano. I hadn’t known what to expect two days ago as the bus started climbing, switchback after switchback.

No doubt we were headed toward the houses and verdant gardens that we could see above our heads as we looked out the bus window. Our hotel was near the bus terminal (Steve’s preference) and we did not have to walk far to reach it. Later we followed the winding road higher to get to the “level” main street lined with shops and other businesses. Taormina is known for the remnants of an ancient Greek Theater. The ruins have been stabilized with brick to withstand tourist traffic, but you’re able scramble up the crumbling tiers. Looking down you see a plank stage built below a few remaining pillars.

Before lunch, we visited a well-maintained public garden overlooking the bay which is a memorial to Sicily’s war dead. The view was stunning, especially in the afternoon. We had lunch at Vecchio Taormina (our third visit, recommended by Lonely Planet for its authentic food and reasonable prices)(Photo: Chef).

Afterward in late afternoon, we rode a funicular down to the coast to get a closer look at the shore. The ride was very short and not as frightening as we thought it might be. We walked along one of the available small beaches; apparently quite busy during the summer. The stroll was rough going over the large surf-smoothed stones. (Along the way, one restaurant had trucked in real sand that annoying clogged up my sandals.) The highlight of the stroll was the roaring, thunderous sound of the surf surging over the stones. The cool breeze was appreciated after the exertion of taking a hundred or so steps down from the road to reach this beach.

Back at the hotel, we sit on our room’s balcony. It has a pleasant, restful view of the surrounding mountain tops, the shoreline below and the bay off to our right. We’re facing northeast, so the sun is setting behind us as the night comes on before us.

From Cities to Towns by the Sea

2010-05-26T14:51:00.003-04:00

The next destination, Siracusa (Syracuse), was reached by bus from Palermo’s unassuming bus stand on a side street. Leaving the city behind, the countryside began to blur past the bus windows in patterns -- orchards of orange trees and mountains in the distance. Soon dark clouds formed on the horizon and it began to rain heavily just as we arrived in Siracusa, at its bus stand on a side street, but near the rail station. We quickly pulled on readily accessible rain jackets and hats. Since our hotel was on a narrow lane not assessable to our taxi, we had to walk to the hotel dragging our luggage with us. Fortunately, the storm was passing over and we didn’t get too wet. The next few days were sunny and bright with moody sunsets. Siracusa is a lovely little town and it was a welcome respite from the hectic cities. We slowed our pace, sat on our balcony, and enjoyed walking the small streets through the town.

One attraction of Siracusa is its ancient Greek theater. To my regret, the stone rows were covered with wooden planks to provide seating for outdoor performances. I was told this is done seasonally; yet as it was it didn’t present a pretty picture (especially during the wrong time of day). However, I was fascinated by the wild flowers and plants that were stubbornly growing from the limestone boulders, evidence of evolution at work. The grounds beyond the theater are laid out as a park around ancient grottos. There were many lemon trees heavy with the fruit; similar to the enormous ones sometime seen in the markets and from which Lemoncello is made (a sweet liqueur).

On Sunday, crowds jammed the cathedral plaza for a ceremony to view the transfer of the statue of St. Lucia from the cathedral to another nearby church. We had noticed the decorations the day before, but were unaware of the planned celebrations. Many events had been scheduled for the entire weekend, including daytime fireworks. The first loud boom was a bit frightening since we didn’t know the cause. Then there was a second boom. No panic ensued, so we turned in the direction of the sounds. The fireworks were being fired up from edge of the bay. I took this fortuitous occurrence to use the video feature of the PowerShot G11. Maybe I’ll venture to put it in a separate blog.

So, leisure time in Siracusa was great. We had lunch at a recommended restaurant which was an event in itself. The owner is an artist and all the restaurant decorations, including collage menus, were done by him. One specialty was hearty thick soups made with local ingredients. The photograph here only shows the table. After the soup, I quickly tried the breaded sardines before it occurred to me to take a photo. Steve was having a flavorful pasta dish.

Streets Paved with Cobblestones

2010-05-19T18:33:00.004-04:00

An unmistakable aspect of Rome, Naples and Palermo is narrow lanes and roads paved in cobblestone. Those 6x8-inch blocks evenly upended, set askew just enough to cause you to stumble every other step. A pedestrian is continually stepping aside to let a CAR (Fiat Panda, Ford Fiesta, Toyota, Peugeot, Renault, Citroën, Volkswagen, BMW, Audi, and I even saw a Chevrolet) or SCOOTER (Piaggio) or MOTOCYCLE (Honda, Kawasaki, Mitsubishi) to pass him or her. Just an observation from a mildly mobility-impaired person.

Steve and I reached Naples, from Rome, by train after about two hours. Luckily, the compartment with our reserved seats was not full. The train station in Naples is undergoing renovation and it proved difficult to find the exit. The taxi ride to the hotel attested to a small car’s maneuverability and a Neapolitan driver’s quick reflexes. And, this is the key reason you would want to press up against a wall or doorway when you hear a car (or motorcycle) coming. During our trip, traffic blocked one route, so the driver took another. It seemed like a mini tour of the city. Since we were staying in the older, historical section of the city, he stopped as near to our hotel as he dared considering the narrow lane and the traffic. For the number of cars you see, you begin to wonder where they park (not to mention where they get gas). There are some cars parked along the lanes/roads, but you soon see that most buildings have inner courtyards where cars can park. Maneuvering tight spaces is seemingly an acquired skill. In addition, with very few traffic signals, pedestrian crossings are designated by white stripes. Beware otherwise.

Naples is the type of city that has to grow on you. To do the city any justice, a photographer would need to stay for several weeks, if not longer. We only had three days; enough to recognize its many layers, but not enough to appreciate its long history and fascinating people. On one day, we rode a funicular up a major hilltop to visit a museum that had formerly been a monastery. The view was incredible, but the wrong time of day for photos. When traveling with someone, there is often no choice of where you’ll be at a certain time of day.

Palermo was much the same, but different. We arrived by overnight ferry and were able to see a part of the city in the soft morning light as we walked to our nearby hotel. A few hours later, not yet noon, the light was harsh and glaring. It seemed to me like an entirely different day. Although the building stock is old, Palermo has a more modern aspect. We had lunch that first day at a neighborhood restaurant. The press and flow of people at lunch time around the counters was intriguing; very much like any other medium-sized city in the world.

Palermo is blessed with marvelous churches. We spent an entire day following an historical route to see several of them. It’s interesting that Palermo has two churches from the Byzantium period with remarkable mosaics which are key stops for many visitors.

Long Days, Restless Nights

2010-05-01T03:29:00.004-04:00

Our trip to Italy proceeds as planned. The Canon PowerShot G11 stills poses a challenge. More details later. The last two days in Rome were tranquil, but long. On Tuesday, we hurried across Rome by metro for our appointed time to enter the Vatican Museums. There were long lines of people waiting to get in and security was quick to check our tickets. Once past screening and inside the entrance hall, there was an even greater press of people, many in large groups. However, we had our own group to join for a guided tour (recommended). Our guide was excellent. Using radio frequency devices, as we moved from room to room her commentary was detailed and interesting. She proved to be quite knowledgeable about key artistic and historical features. At one location, she amusingly exhaled a “mamma mia!” at the congestion in the room as she looked for a spot to stand to give her talk.

After the tour, we entered the Sistine Chapel where we remained looking up at the original images that one sees so frequently reproduced in various media: in books, on posters, in ads, etc. Silence was demanded; no photos allowed. You’re able to enter St. Peter’s directly when you exit the Chapel (to avoid re-screening). The open space and high ceiling were very welcome after dodging the earlier crowds. We happened to be there at a time of day when bright streams of light from the upper windows provided unique illumination and patterns.

It was warm and very sunny when we emerged into the square from the dim interior of St. Peter. Walking past Castel Sant’Angelo, we crossed a bridge to reach a nearby neighborhood looking for a restaurant for a late lunch.

We eventually decided upon a place, but I found the displays outside of restaurants along the way to be creative advertisements; the owners going a step further than just displaying the menu.

Wednesday morning we walked from our hotel to the nearby Quirinale to see the Caravaggio exhibit. The experience has heightened my appreciation of the “master,” as he was referred to on the audio guide. The exhibit was limited to prominent works proven to be painted by Caravaggio himself, including “The Musicians,” a familiar painting from the Met museum (NY). His work provides good lessons for photographers in the use of lighting effects to enhance realism in an image.

After this excursion, more walking; we saw the Trevi Fountain, then a late lunch. Later, we happened upon a martial band playing in the Piazza Navona. We returned to the hotel to rest. Dinner was at a nearby Pizzeria, one of the oldest in Rome: Est! Est! Est! The restaurant is atmospheric and welcoming.

Sometimes too much of good things during the day lead to restless nights. I become sleepy soon after downloading, reviewing and backing up my images from the day. No time left to write. That explains why you need to schedule a day of rest in your itinerary. We’ll have to see about that so I can catch up with reporting our itinerary and the challenge with the Canon G11.

Tomorrow, we travel by train to Naples. It should offer a contrast to Rome.

Canon PowerShot G11: Evolution or Devolution

2010-04-21T19:02:00.003-04:00

To keep the commentary on track, I’ve decided NOT to bring my digital SLR on the trip to Italy. I’m traveling only with a recently purchased Canon PowerShot G11. Since I’ve been using a DSLR for nearly five years, this is quite a momentous decision for me. I’m very comfortable with my DSLR. I would consider it a tool; as an extension of my hand. Can the Canon G11 measure up? The quick answer would be yes. But why not give it a real road test. My principal concern is whether my SLR skill set is transferable to a point-and-shoot. Five years ago, I upgraded from a Canon PowerShot point-and-shoot to my current DLSR. Will it be an evolution or devolution of technology? The Canon G11 is not a replacement for my DSLR, but a camera to keep handy for the inevitable shouldn‘t miss shot. I will postpone any judgment during the early days of my trip. Yet, these past three days have posed a challenge.

The first afternoon in Rome was another adrenal-filled day (second only to our departure from JFK). We arrived later than expected in Rome; the crowds at the airport were enormous as several planes had landed around the same time. There were mobs around all 12 luggage carousels. Which ONE was ours? While waiting, I heard a lot of spoken German, and saw families with lots of luggage desperate to get somewhere.

The usual travelers’ opinion is to stay on your feet after arriving at your destination in Europe. Often this is necessary if your hotel room is not ready for your occupancy. This time our room was ready. After napping until nearly 5:00 pm, we set out for a walk in the Monti and Forum areas. (If you recall from my last post, this was one option. The other was to proceed to the Borghese Gardens.) The sun was low in the sky and the temperature pleasant. Being a Sunday, families with children as well as tourist were enjoying the evening. We even crossed paths with a couple with whom we had driven into the city center by a bus shuttle.

For dinner, we wound our way through the narrow, curving streets off the Via del Corso, to one of Steve’s favorite restaurants, Baffetto, well-known for its thin crust pizzas. True to its reputation, there was a line when we arrived and a line which extended further by the time we left nearly two hours later.

Monday was a free day for us as we had no events scheduled. We started at the train station in order to buy our train tickets for the next destination on our trip. Afterwards, we went for espressos in the station café. While there, an announcement frantically told the multitudes in long lines that seats for points north to France and Switzerland were sold out. Apparently, this was a residual effect of the volcano eruption in Iceland. We felt lucky as we had purchased our tickets at an automated ticket kiosk within a reason length of time. We also felt lucky to be in Rome. Who could have predicted such a life changing event four months ago.

Leaving the Termini station, we took a bus to the Campo Fiori area. After walking around a daily market (vegetables, fruit, assorted tourist kitsch, and restaurant hawkers), we had lunch at Da Sergio, located down one of the narrow lanes, off the Piazza. Very enjoyable. I allowed myself to have a Spaghetti Carbonara. Ooh, so rich and full of calories; with a thick saffron colored sauce. Steve had another local specialty, Spaghetti Caci e Pepe.

When we were about to leave, there was a brief rain shower, but as we started to walk around, we heard the distant rumble of thunder. We just reached a nearby pub, before the sky darkened and furiously dropped hail stones. Over an hour later we continued our stroll (at one point, reaching Piazza Navona after sunset and enjoying a cherry-and-crème gelato), we returned to the hotel by bus.

We have two more days in Rome before going by train to Naples. Tuesday morning, we start at the Vatican Museums, then St. Peters. On Wednesday, I’m especially anxious to see the Caravaggio exhibit.

Departure to Rome

2010-04-17T16:42:00.001-04:00

Today, my husband, Steve, and I are all set for departure to Rome. Check-in at JFK Airport was uneventful. Removing your jacket, shoes and computer is fairly routine now. I imagine that since we are flying to southern Europe, flights are not yet grounded by the volcano eruption in Iceland.

A lady on the phone sitting next to in the gate area was just repeating several times: “The airport is so empty. We’re going. We’re going!” Weather-wise, there are dark looming rain clouds on one side and the sun breaking through on the other.

Steve asked me what did I want to do first after we check-in to the hotel. I said, “Let’s go to the Borghese Gardens“. I’m taking into consideration that we will be indoors nearly all of one day touring the sights at the Vatican. Another day, we will be seeing the special Caravaggio exhibit at the Quirinale. Steve said, “let’s first go to the Forum“. Check back to find out where we end up

We will be boarding in about in about 20 minutes. The flight is delayed 30 minutes. That’s light comedy compared to some other trips.

As I put this together to post, a swirl of spoken Chinese changes to Italian, Then, noisey hubbub from a group of young people traveling somewhere circles the room. Gotta go; they're starting to board.

Women Photographers -- Panel Discussion

2010-03-29T00:19:00.002-04:00

Recently, I attended a seminar held to commemorate Women’s Awareness Month, sponsored by B&H Photo. Discussion panels and talks by working photographers at their Event Space, held free, are something I frequently attend to learn about new products, introductions to popular ones, or to listen to travel photographers talk about their experiences. How else could I see a demonstration of the rule of thirds, which helps tremendously with visualization, an important step before pushing the shutter button. Or see the latest in flash gear for my camera.

But I digress; the seminar was a panel discussion among five outstanding and talented women photographers, moderated by Jackie King, who traveled to New York from London especially for the seminar. The other speakers included: Lauren Steel, Cig Harvey, Renee Cox and Anne Arden McDonald (who I heard speak at the Alternative Methods panel presented by F295). The presentations focused on personal work, especially self-portraits, but other remarks ranged more widely.

What was the take-away from the presentation? One, the slideshows emphasized how every photographer has a unique view of their surroundings. The speakers talked about their backgrounds, approaches and particular viewpoints. Some good questions too: does feminine energy play a part in the creation of the final image. Lauren Steel , manager of Reportage at Getty Images, acknowledged that women can gain entry into certain places that men could not as easily, she spoke about some men’s work reflecting sensitivity and emotion. Factors often considered features of a woman’s creative output. Even this is not always the case, Anne Arden McDonald considered her universal, wide range appeal as a sales point. Her imagery is used to define herself, to address tensions and struggles in her life that are often common to many people, men and women.

This issue also addressed the inclination of women to include themselves in their work. Cig Harvey’s photographs are meant to reflect the resolution of certain circumstances in her life. As well, she wants to tell a story through her imagery; she brainstorms to find ideas, to make order out of chaos, beauty out of pain. Self-portraits are a way to remember, be a trigger to recall past life events. Equally, the exploration can lead to new adventures, to learn to exist more in the present. In this manner, Harvey is using less constructed imagery, in favor of more reality-based ones. And in a manner of speaking, Renee Cox could be considered totally reality-based. After working as a fashion photographer, she consciously focused on her personal work which is quite distinctive and at times was controversial. Her new work addresses feminine issues in a quirky way.

Jackie King revealed a lighthearted side to her work that emerged from her two year stay in the United States. Recently she had a marathon shoot to document 100 women; 100 portraits were recently on view in a London exhibition.

Dear readers, I will leave you with two questions. One brought by a panelist, who was once asked: Why was she an artist? The second question came from the audience, asked of the panelists: Do you construct your work from your head, your heart or your groin?

[Images: International Working Women's Day Rally, March 27, 2010; Union Square, New York, NY.]

Spring Has Bloomed

2010-03-24T23:02:00.002-04:00

In the month of March, so far, I’ve attended two seminars offered by Professional Women Photographers (PWP), ably organized by Barbara Nelson. One, Social Media and Digital Marketing, was a how to blog, get on Facebook, LinkedIn and all about Tweeter. Another, Creative Marketing Techniques for Survival, focused on marketing techniques using social media. For many years, Barbara has been an acquaintance of Dorian Benkoil, Co-Founder of Teeming Media. Dorian spoke about the importance of using social media in a business environment, and through his father, commercial and art photographer Robert Stahman, he naturally could highlight overlooked opportunities for emerging photographers. As social media have become quite phenomenal in the past few years, not all of us are taking advantage of the chance to connect to other photographers and potential clients.

I’ve also attended the Street Photography Workshop given by David Wells. Also, sponsored by PWP. It was quite an invigorating day, as David is a stimulating teacher who has a great reservoir of information. We were given an assignment to photograph outdoors according to his “rules.” I spent this past Saturday morning at the Union Square Farmers’ Market. David told us, first, to look for “choke” points. I believe the farmers’ market qualifies. I continually saw little vignettes unfolding, but I must wait for David’s comments at the follow-up session. The assignment has to be repeated in the exact same location, so I’ll be returning to the farmers’ market this coming Saturday. I’m hoping it’s sunny and cool again.
[Image: Union Square Farmers' Market, Shopping for Orchids ( f5.6; 1/320; 53mm; ISO 200). These ladies were great; I took several photos of them making their choice. David advised us to shoot wide open (f5.6, in my case, I have a slow lens) in order to blur the background. This is evident in some of my other photos from the shoot on Saturday.]

Welcome to Re-Launch of Blog

2010-03-24T15:33:00.006-04:00

New Friends and Old, I’m re-launching my blog as KC Dover Photography. It will no longer be just a Travel Journal, although that will remain a key component of my conversation with you. I received the inspiration to do this, after many months’ absence, by attending several workshops sponsored by Professional Women Photographers (PWP) and other seminars relating to photography. My goal is to gather new information and inspiration to continue to improve my images. And this time around, I will share what I’m learning as well as providing photo tips from past experiences.
[Image: Boat Trip on Lake Como, Italy; Sept 2009. It's difficult to shoot in contrasty light, but this was a shot begging to be taken (f10.0; 1/160; 28mm; ISO 200, late afternoon light). I don't remember why the ISO was set at 200. It was probably at that setting all afternoon. Tip: check camera settings when you change location.]

TEST

2010-03-13T12:35:00.000-05:00

TESTING FEEDS THROUGH TWITTERFEED

Signs of Season Change

2009-09-02T22:35:00.020-04:00

The weather here in New York has finally moderated -- warm, no humidity, very little rain – and perhaps now we can look forward to the stark blue skies and crisp air of fall. I believe the weather is very similar in Paris as the days grow shorter.

I’ve been occupied setting up a new computer, loading software and streamlining my collection of photos. I had run out of hard drive space, so this is an opportunity to review everything. It leads to reminiscing, but that’s one purpose of photography. I have had a few good laughs and moments of reflection seeing how far I’ve come with my “hobby.”

NEWS AND COMMENTS FOR FUTURE TRAVEL TO PARIS:

Picasso Museum (ww.musee-picasso.fr) closed for extensive renovations and expansion on 23 August 2009 for approximately two years until 2012. Note: educational and cultural events related to Picasso may appear at other locations. Check the web site for updates.

L’opération entraînera la fermeture du musée Picasso à compter du 23 août et le déménagement de ses collections. Un chantier scientifique d'étude, de récolement, de restauration et de numérisation des fonds du musée sera mené durant cette période de fermeture et sera accompagné d'un gel des prêts. En parallèle, des actions éducatives et culturelles innovantes hors les murs seront proposées.Les travaux commenceront début 2010 pour une durée de 24 mois.

Since returning home, two small Parisian museums have come to my attention which may substitute for a visit to the Picasso Museum:

(1) Musée Gustave Moreau, 14, rue de la Rochefoucauld (9th arr.), metro Trinité d’Estienne d’Orves, closed Tuesdays. Hours: 10h to 12h45, and from 14h to 17h15. Entry: 5 euro. Interiors of the “hôtel particulier” were seen in a short documentary and appeared to be quite interesting, in addition to a display of paintings by Moreau that willed to the state upon his death.

(2) Musée de Albert-Kahn, in Boulogne-Billancourt (92), including well-landscaped gardens, 14, rue du Port, metro Pont de Saint-Cloud, closed Mondays. Hours: 11h to 19h. Entry: 1.50 euro. A newspaper article (Wall Street Journal, August 20, 2009 written by Richard Woodward, includes slides) talked about Albert-Kahn’s mission to promote international peace. The main collection contains autochromes taken from 1909 to 1930, as well as documentary films, featuring about 50 countries around the world. A recent exhibition highlighted Infinite India (closed 30 August). Just a few metro stops away and the description of the gardens seemed ideal for a day of rest. See also (in English): www.albertkahn.co.uk/about.html.

I can also recommend the following for your consideration:

(1) Musée de la Vie Romantique, Hôtel Scheffer-Renan, 16, rue Chaptal (9th arr.), metro Pigalle or Saint-George, closed Monday. Hours: 10h to 18h. Entry: 7 euro for temporary exhibits (on the theme of romanticism), free for permanent collection (paintings and other objects of art from the 19th century). Has a lush entry off the street and lovely garden.

(2) If the weather is nice, go for lunch as well as the Musée Jacquemart-André, 158, bd Haussmann (8th arr.), open every day from 10h to 18h. Entry 10 euro. The museum focuses on the decorative arts of 18th century France, paintings and sculpture of the Renaissance and various periods in Italian art.

Photos of people and building facades were taken in and around the Musée du Louvre; and the bronze sculptures by Aristide Maillol are located throughout Jardin des Tuileries.

La Defénse

2009-08-25T21:43:00.041-04:00

The esplanade of La Defénse (“le Parvis”) is an often overlooked walking option. Located on the western edge of Paris, it is easily reached by metro line no. 1 (either Esplanade de la Defénse, or Grande Arche, the last stop). As Paris’ key business district, the largest in Europe, it is more than just modern steel-and-glass office buildings, hotels, a few low-rise residential buildings and a commercial center. The area could be considered an open-air sculpture gallery.

Anyone who has an interest in modern architecture will find many splendid examples here. They are quite thrilling to see. Yet, walking along the esplanade, or the various paths in and around the various buildings, you will find many modern art sculptures, fountains and ponds. I like to think of these objects and constructions as small human touches to counterbalance the glass-and-steel.

Thumb. Sculpture by Cesar, one of France’s preeminent artists.

On my visit a few weeks ago, I had changeable skies as you can see from the photos. First it was bright and warm (the best for viewing the buildings and the art), then overcast, then partly cloudy skies, then it was drab, drab, drab by late afternoon.

There is a shopping mall (Quatre Temps) with stores to browse through, places to eat, or for catching a movie. When it was overcast, I explored the mall and had a simple lunch at a chain restaurant. Lots of light enters through the multi-level windows as well as sky lights along the corridors.

If you have time, and would like more information about the history of La Defénse, look for the Espace Info Defénse Museum, near La Grande Arche on the esplanade.

La Grande Arche stands prominently at the west end of the esplanade. At 100m/361ft, most guide books will mention that Notre Dame could fit inside the open cube. On a future visit, I hope to visit the viewing platform, accessed by glass elevators, for views of the Paris. There is also a Computer Museum and a restaurant.
The rationale for its design was as an anchor to the “Axis Historical” which runs from La Defénse down the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe, then onward to the Louvre.

I explored the various areas off the esplanade looking for sculptures and other art. Some famous artists are represented – Joan Miro, Alexander Calder – others unknown to me. It is after lunch and there were not that many people walking about. But a few could be seen in front of some buildings on their cigarette breaks. This activity has become more noticeable, not only here, but throughout the city.

Alexander Calder’s last sculpture is not easily overlooked.
At about the center of the esplanade is a large fountain which I have been fortunate only once to see shooting streams of water skyward. Otherwise water flows over colorful dark blue, red and cream-colored tiles that sparkle in the sunlight. A few benches below the fountain can serve as a rest stop to admire the view.

This apparently white-paned structure is my favorite (Coeur Defénse); I think the white rectangles are window shades. I can’t help but think of the office workers who have to pull down the shades to block out the light. The randomness of this makes for an interesting sight.

At the end of the esplanade, you come to the Takis Pond, a lovely reflecting pool. Beyond it you can just get a glimpse of the Arc de Triomphe at the end of the Champs-Élysées.

Sadly new construction seems to be overwhelming the Pond (it once had the view to itself), but several people were still sitting by it for the occasional cool breezes.

Off to the right, if you must, you can see the tip of the Eiffel Tower far in the distance.

It’s been a long walk and you may elect to return to city at the nearby metro station (Esplanade de la Defénse), as I usually do, rather than return back up the esplanade to La Grande Arche metro station. That is, unless you want to shop at FNAC in the CNIT building, one of the first to be built (1958), for that DVD of a particular French singer you want to bring home.

So, if you run out of options during your visit to Paris, consider taking the short trip to La Defénse for an afternoon. (Note: these metro stations mentioned are in zones 1&2, if you happen to take RER A, La Defénse is zone 3.)

Movies and a Dinner

2009-08-17T12:08:00.019-04:00

Written before departure: 8 August 2009

The last weekend of my visit to Paris was great fun, and not so great. On Saturday, I went to La Cinémathèque Française (Musée du Cinema) to see the commemorative exhibition Jacques Tati, deux temps, trois movement (closed 2 August). When I entered the main section of the exhibition, my eyes widened and my face held a grin for nearly the entire visit. I was reacting to the bright neon color signs, open space and the many video screens set up around the room in discrete areas. Each area was devoted to a particular Jacques Tati film surrounded by additional displays (for example, objects, photographs, drawings, and letters) which illustrated something about the films or Tati. They were so engrossing that you had to wait your turn to see the videos. Yet the floor of the exhibit was not that crowded. The creative aspects of the exhibition point to the tremendous thought given by the designers and curators of the exhibition.

I have only seen one of the six films represented, Mon Oncle, but I look forward to seeing full length versions of the others. Mon Oncle was the recipient of an academy award for best foreign film in 1959 and the subject of a full-scale mock-up of the futuristic Villa Arpel featured in it at the atelier Cent Quatre (19th) (www.104.fr), which my husband and I saw last spring.

The video screens showed in a loop two-to-three minute clips from the films. The five others were Parade, Trafic, Playtime, Les Vacances de M. Hulot and Jour de Fête. Tati transforms himself into the character Monsieur Hulot. His ordinary actions going about his day -- with his nephew or at the beach -- turn into hilarious sequences. He is often compared to Buster Keaton and others. The films are the type to leave you with genuine satisfaction as it ends.

After leaving La Cinémathèque Française, I wandered through the Parc de Bercy (12th). There were areas for relaxation, an extensive rose garden, a section with rows of grape vines, some containing unripe green grapes, and an overgrown teaching garden with nearly every imaginable herb or summer flower. All a delight to see.

Later at the café/restaurant adjacent to La Cinémathèque Française, they were setting up for a lovely evening with music and drinks and people were already enjoying themselves.

I had to pull myself away in order to be on time for my dinner invitation. Dinner was an occasion for a simple home cooked meal and plenty of conversation. It was a great end to the day.

Sunday, first Sunday of the month, offered the opportunity to enter the Louvre for free -- no admission fee whatsoever. The day was not totally regrettable. After waiting in line with many, many others, there was the experience of this peculiar phenomenon-- “free”.

I regret to say that I felt the grand museum was being disrespected by many. I have never had this feeling before. Crowds! Yes (where you stand three deep to see a painting), but not the unsettling atmosphere I experienced on this day. What bothered me the most was touristic behavior brought from outside into the museum. People were posing, posturing and photographing each other in front of paintings, sculptures and objects of art. Once again, one may infrequently see this happen elsewhere. I was troubled by the great number of groups who were participating. It was unpleasant beyond any measure. Signs are clearly posted NOT to use your camera’s flash. However, I lost count of the number of times I saw a flash go off in my vicinity. I was there, as were a few others, who had come to SEE what the Louvre had to offer. Apparently extra security personnel were there to supervise the crowds, guide them in, guide them out, but did not intervene in other ways as far as I could see.

There has to be a sociological explanation for this type of behavior, but it is beyond my comprehension. I understand that it is the height of the tourist season. And my friends would have warned me, had I asked, to avoid going to any museum on a first Sunday. I should have strolled along the Paris Plage or in a park on that nice summer day. Go to the Louvre on a “first Sunday” if it’s the only day you have to visit.

Traveling Back in Time

2009-08-07T08:04:00.023-04:00

Road trips can be unpredictable, even with a perfect plan. The topography of the road may not correspond with that of the mind‘s awareness, or the tiny, unreadable roadway numbers on a map. I have an offer to take a daytrip of my choice and I choose to go to Ecouen, a banlieue of Paris, that is, not far away, to see an exhibit at the Chateau d’Ecouen, Musée National de la Renaissance (www.musee-renaissance.fr) focused on the bath and mirror. It is a co-exhibit with Musée de Cluny, Musée National du Moyen Age (www.musee-moyenage.fr), in Paris focused on the body and cosmetics.

The Renaissance period can be of interest for comparison with the modern era. One can appreciate the fact that basic human nature has not changed in these hundreds of years. No one could deny that there is a shared interest today in the bath, cosmetics, and grooming.

In Greco-Roman times, it was important to those within reach of the upper politic. Some of their recipes for perfumes and cosmetics have come down to us. Did you ever wonder what was in your daily moisturizer? The Greco-Roman period as well as the Renaissance where the focus of the Cluny exhibit.

At Chateau d’Ecouen, enhanced by its well-kept grounds, the exhibit was more extensive in the use of its resources.

My friend and I set out early to first reach Senlis. A small city only a little farther away, in the same general direction as Ecouen. The countryside proved to be quite pleasing once we were out the city. Some fields of wheat sway in the wind, waiting to be harvested which probably has been postponed due to recent rains. There were also some fields of corn and green leafy plants we could not identify.

We make one stop on the way at Chateau Pontarmé. My reading public, we’ll have to do our research to determine why this two-story was considered a chateau. It evidently had a moat, but does that qualify it as a chateau? We were puzzled.
Now it is a renovated, private residence set in idyllic surroundings off the main highway.

We reach Senlis and stop first at its bus station. Our view is blocked by an enormous bus, so we kindly ask the driver when he might be moving his vehicle so we can take photographs. It was only a matter of minutes. The station was rebuilt to replace an earlier one burned down during WWI and stands as an historical testament to those years. Architecturally distinctive, it is noteworthy.
(For PSch, poles?)

When we approach Senlis’ cathedral, we see a number of people standing in front. We surmise that a baptismal ceremony is about to begin when we see someone holding a baptismal gown and, also, when the priest comes out to ask everyone to come in for the ceremony. We enter just before it starts to walk through and study the combinative architecture of the church. If ever you want see a mixture of styles, this cathedral is a good candidate. There is no real quarrel though; a serene harmony has been achieved with its merger of late Roman and early Gothic styles.

We felt a bit like intruders during the ceremony, but it was good to see this display of community cohesion because many families had come together for the occasion. We slipped away for cups of coffee and tea and later watched families with their young children depart the cathedral after the ceremony Senlis retains some of its small village ambiance and is worth a side trip.

What comes next is the mind boggling decisions to take this turn, or that road. We want to go through the Chantilly forest, but definitely not through Chantilly, the town, to reach Ecouen. Airplanes taking off from Orly pinpoint where we are. We savor the mostly clear blue skies and far horizons. It feels great to be out of the city.

My most memorable sight was the electrical pylons stringing wires for kilometers left and right of the roads in this particular area. They held sway like colossal behemoths, standing five or more across, with no doubt that the electrical power was heading in the direction of Paris; for example, to light up the Eiffel Tower in its 120th year. We eventually found the right road to go through the forest and pass an inland lake to reach Chateau d’Ecouen.

The chateau is monumental and set in extensive grounds. It overlooks a valley with the town spread out below. The exhibit was informative (there were more paintings illustrating the “rituals of the toilette”) and highlighted the symbol of the mirror that I had not be noted before. The permanent collection covering several floors is also worth a visit. I’m glad we went through the quick-turn barriers in small villages to get there.

For SBC and SSch. Thanks for being there.

Summary of Past Week

2009-07-31T14:47:00.013-04:00

The past week has been a bit hectic. I must shift the balance of my activities from that of being flaneur to tourist. I have joined the ranks of the Spanish, Italians, Germans, Swedes, Japanese and other persons whose languages I do not recognize. It is now my last full week in Paris.

For those of you coming to Paris in a few weeks, any exhibition I mention will have a specific closing date. Everyone else, see www.paris.fr for events focused on Paris citywide. For more cultural events, see www.parisinfo.com. Upon arrival, immediately buy a copy of Pariscope (unless it is a Monday or Tuesday, then wait for the new issue on Wednesday) at a newsstand for euro 0.40 as a source to find out what‘s going on in Paris.

Le Weekend
Saturday -- visited the Musée de Cluny-National Museum of the Middle Ages. Current exhibition -- “Le bain and the mirror” (until 21 September), relates to the importance of cosmetics, and bathing rituals in Greco-Roman times. As well as similar manifestations during the middle ages. Also, I saw a good portion of the permanent collection, including the unicorn tapestries.
Sunday -- a roundabout daytrip by car to Senlis, through the Fôret de Chantilly to Ecouen. The trip was made primarily to see the countryside, but to also see a companion exhibition at Ecouen’s Musée National de la Renaissance (Chateau d’Ecouen), "Soins du corps et cosmétiques à la Renaissance". It was a great day, however I will include more in a separate post, as time permits.

Monday
Afternoon -- steady rain.
Evening -- viewing of Eiffel Tower at sunset and the twinkling lights later. It’s not just for tourist; it can be considered a free event. Come with friends and share a picnique.

Tuesday
Morning -- Paris Plages. Different types of activities set up along right bank of the Seine, centered around the Hotel de Ville. It has become an annual event for Parisians unable to leave the city for a summer vacation.

Well, that’s the official line, but it is actually part of city-wide events to make summer a major season. Amble use is made of the late setting sun (near 10:00 p.m.) -- concerts, dance programs, movies under the stars and some boxed-in areas with fine sand. Quite a bit to choose from.

From Paris Plages to Palais Royal. I am sorry to say that part of it is undergoing renovation. I believe it was overdo, but it was disappointing to see it in this disrupted state. (An orange-colored gel, and an assortment of other colors, were placed in the people's peep squares.)

Lunch, then the “Planète Parr” exhibition at the Jeu de Paume-Corcorde (until 27 September). Martin Parr is not one of my favorite photographers and collector (self-described); however, I will applaud his efforts to bring emerging photographers to the public’s attention. The exhibit is divided between some of his work from 2008 and earlier works by documentary photographers whom he has identified.

This was a long, exhausting day for me. I fall into bed once I reach home. Perhaps warmish, sunny weather had something to do with it.

Wednesday
I took bus 63, mentioned last week, to the Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (16th), 11, av. du President Wilson. “L’Imagaire d’après Nature” (until 13 September) presents a re-collection of vintage Henri Cartier-Bresson photographs from a 1975 exhibit. It was nice to see the favorites up close.

Took a bus (#42) to the La Madeleine area for the “Valadon - Utrillo: Turn of the Century in Montmartre, Impressionism to School of Paris“ exhibition at Pinocothèque de Paris (8th), 28, place de la Madeleine (until 15 September). An ambitious endeavor, covering all floors, put purposely limited in scope. I would have liked to have seen more by Valadon. However, if you have never seen an extensive display of works by these two artists, you should definitely try to go.

Kept the day short, but not before I made a stop at Maille (Company). I’m excited about trying the specialty mustard that I bought (Apricot sec with curry) and the very intriguing Vinaigre de la Pulpe de Figues.

Thursday
I finally took the plunge, so to speak. I should have gone sooner to the Hammam at the Mosquee de Paris (39, rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire), for a sauna and massage. It is located quite near to my apartment, next to the Jardin des Plantes, but I had not been before now. I spent a relaxing few hours followed by lunch at the restaurant. The restaurant and tea room (great looking pastries) are very popular. This day it was not too crowded. For a change of pace, I had Lamb Couscous (a fair amount to eat for one person) and Moroccan coffee. I bought two pastries for later.
In the evening, I strolled along Paris Plages again.

Coincidently, the book being read is "The Reader".

Friday
This morning I did some grocery shopping and saw a few other places in the neighborhood. After chatting with all of you, I will be going out again. Until next time.

Le Chat

2009-07-27T07:00:00.020-04:00

As this event occurred early in the day, I will start with the story of the cat, as promised. Note that the long-haired black cat, one white sock, was the first player to leave the stage after having entered unseen by the other players.

I left the apartment without coffee as I wanted to reach “xyz” museum early. I’m in the area of Forum de Les Halles, near Rue Rambuteau, passing a café when I decide to stop for a café crème and to check my e-mails. What is a few minutes here, there, somewhere else. I am about to leave when I notice a waiter attempting to catch a tiny bird. For his two steps, stooping, hands outstretched, the bird hops away. Another few steps, the tiny bird covers some more ground toward a stand of motorcycles. The waiter is joined by two others who more than likely are chiding the him, asking what is he doing. I sense that the bird is injured and he is trying to capture it. One more attempt is made to swoop up the helpless creature. The three men are in a loose circle near the stand of motorcycles . . . quick as a snap of the fingers Le chat pounces for the bird, with feathers blooming from its mouth, streaks pass the tables, straight into the café’s open front door. The waiter who wanted to help, was moaning very loudly, striking his forehead. Everyone else watching, including me, held our breathe for a second. We had been caught up in the mini drama, especially the swiftness of its occurrence. Animal lovers, those are the facts.

In the tradition of Flânerie
I must be moving on to my destination. However, to be honest, I will say now that I do not reach it. I am repeatedly sidetracked until the day ends in Luxembourg Garden under fast moving dark clouds threatening rain, then it does for a few minutes. The sun had been out amidst wispy clouds only fifteen minutes earlier.

I round the corner of Forum de Les Halles toward the Bourse du Commerce. (You might pass this way if you were looking for the Pompidou Centre, but actually you are going the wrong way (turn around retrace your steps).) As I pass Église Saint-Eustache, I notice a sculpture in front that I had not seen before. Well, “xyz” museum can wait. I proceed to enter the church recalling that restoration work has been ongoing for some time.

I’m immediately overwhelmed again by the loft and height of the columns. The volume of the church demands to be examined more closely. I read later that government budget constraints limit the amount and pace of the reconstruction work. Saint-Eustache is just one of many churches owned and partially financed by the government. Two chapels were recently completed, but stand out starkly in a church that has been neglected.

Stay in one place long enough, the show comes to you. Heading for the exit, I pause to figure out why there is a new crowd gathering around the podium, chairs and music stands set up in front of the altar. I had assumed they were there from a previous event, but were, indeed, intended for a scheduled evening concert. I lingered for another hour or so enjoying a rehearsal of the Radio France choral group (Le Choeur de Radio France) accompanied by Saint-Eustache‘s organ. Much better than television. The rumMM, rumMM, eium eiumM of the organ was just great. I had to pull myself away before it was over. I hope the group had a good evening.

If you should ever find yourself on Rue du Louvre, go in the right direction (I needed my compass as well as my map). I was fine walking along until the time sped on and I started to wonder when the place was going to show up, maybe at the next corner. Rue Montmartre, Blvd. Montmartre . . . I wasn‘t too worried, because I‘m in Paris I just kept walking .

On Blvd. Montmartre, I’m instantly drawn into several passages. Two are across the road from each other. Passage des Panoramas and Passage Jouffroy. The first has many shops devoted to the buying and selling of postage stamps and far too many restaurants for the space.

The other had fewer shops, but one where I crossed the threshold. It was worth stopping and the steady stream of customers clued me to the fact that it was a popular place (okay, I agree it’s for tourist) -- self-serve cookie counter (fabulous flavors); wrapped hard candies; hard candies made to look like olives have chocolate centers; brightly colored tin boxes for gift packaging and more. La Cure Gourmande, 10 blvd. Montmartre, www.la-cure-gourmande.com.

As I write this, I'm finishing the buttery cookies I bought, with a cup of Kenyan coffee.

There was one passage further on after I turned a corner to Rue de Richelieu, the “coolest” one yet (Passage des Princes). All the shops were devoted to kids.
This is the area, 2nd arrondissement, of the Bourse, Bibliothèque Nationale-Richelieu, and the Hôtel de Poste (an impressive building). The places definitely had a tinge of no-nonsense business, including the sight of young men in suit and tie (smokers in front of a building), or women in business attire heading home for the evening.
I see I’ve run too long. To wrap up: time to start home, much, too much walking and the skies are very gloomy. I found a convenient bus stop, took a bus heading for the Luxembourg Garden, and rested there before it rained.

Redirection

2009-07-24T20:21:00.012-04:00

White is in this season and so is la folie des bonus, according to editors in Wednesday’s edition of Le Monde.

Gee, its happens to be Friday, 24 July. Where did the week go? I ask, where did the week go? It’s the beginning of my third week and after a lapse in posting I’ve had an e-mail inquiry as to my health and safety. Those are fine. However, the pace of activities has slowed. I have plenty of photos (and stories, one especially for cat lovers) from the several days I was out and about Paris this past week.

Just happen to be passing, lots of people in line waiting to visit Notre Dame.

Sculpture detail, Square Rene Viviani, Quai de Montebello, across from Notre Dame.

Make of it what you will. I like the color of the sign.

Let’s start with breakfast. I have been enjoying a very flavorful cup of coffee in the mornings, origin Kenya, purchased from Hediard, located in Place de la Madeleine. Hediard is a purveyor of fine foods, teas, coffee, spices, mentioned frequently in the literature for visitors to Paris (as are Mariage Frères and Maille (Company)). I didn’t survey the entire store as I mainly wanted to buy coffee, so I will comment only on the coffee and a spice blend.

The coffee was priced at a slight discount for “soldes” season, but that did not determine my choice. Kenya is well-known for its excellent coffee.
The café moulu Afrique de l’est is medium flavored, though with full body, not acidic or over roasted, and quite good for breakfast, although I believe it would probably go well with desserts, similar to an expresso. The spice blend, tai chi, consists of salt, paprika, onion, black pepper, chili pepper, gingembre(?) lemon, zest and coriander. Just the right mixture of spices in one bottle (grinder included) for preparing a quick meal.

Lunch or dinner (eat-in): For anyone in the neighborhood of Rue Mouffetard and you are too tired to cook after all your walking, try this little traiteur which is distinctly different from the typical traiteur. La Table d’Orphee considers itself a boutique located at 5, rue de Bazeilles, 75005, parallel and west of Rue Mouffetard, www.latabledorphee.fr. There is sister restaurant (same chef), Les p’tites indécises at 2, rue des 3 Bornes, 75011. Will look for reviews later. I enjoyed my take-away dish of steamed salmon (a large piece) with tiny green beans and sautéed carrots. Prices are average. There was a selection of meat, chicken and pasta dishes; and an assortment of beverages. I will be trying them again.

Commentary to come on the Mexican restaurant, Anahua Calli, and, just today I received a recommendation for an outstanding, not to be missed, patisserie in the neighborhood.

Wednesday was reserved for a long bus ride to get to a certain destination. I can recommend bus no. 63 as a good introduction to several different aspects of Paris for someone here only a few days. The bus travels east-west across the mid-section of the city: starting at Gare de Lyon through the Latin Quarter, along Saint Germain for quite a distance, then Invalides, and Trocadero, ending at Porte de la Muette (near Bois de Boulogne). The trip puts you within reach of many sights. Have you been to Église Saint-Sulpice lately? Are they still renovating?

What’s the best thing to do next (if you no longer wish to go to “xyz” museum? It’s fine weather (for a few hours), so get on bus no. 72 somewhere along the Seine to travel east toward Hotel de Ville. Once there, see what the latest Mairie-sponsored activity is, for example, the Boxing Tour for young kids. Go shopping at BHV across the Rue de Rivoli. There is a fairyland of wonderment in the basement.

I see there are too many words on the page. The cat story must wait until next time.

Daytrips to Chartres and Versailles

2009-07-20T14:56:00.012-04:00

CHARTRES

Traveling to see great sites and to have a wonderful meal can apply to more than Paris. I was invited to join a friend to see the illumination event produced for Chartres Cathedral and other historic locations in the city of Chartres. We went for the evening to see the “light show,” but it is a small, very lovely town that requires a longer visit.

The illuminations and sounds were quite remarkable. More than just colored lights, patterns and other images, some with text, were projected onto the buildings. My image cannot do justice to event. Take a look at the web site for a more colorful idea of the project intended as a “new way of looking at the city.” - http://www.chartresenlumieres.com/uk/accueil.html

This image was captured as we toured the other locations: Le Théâtre, accompanied by excerpts from Italian operas.

Before taking the little train around to the different sites, we had dinner at a well-appointed restaurant situated in an older building (La Vielle Maison). I was told that my selection of confit de canard (duck) was a typical French meal and that I should also try another typical meal, quail (caille) prepared with a light sauce. I enjoyed my meal immensely having started with tête de veau , mild in taste with only a slight undulation in texture. A traditional dish favored by some remarkable men, including Charles de Gaulle. The wine selected by the young couple who joined us for the evening was excellent. Its body and fruity notes were a perfect match for the meals that we ordered.

Following the chilly train ride, and before returning to Paris, we warmed our hands and spirits at an unusual salon de the, The Serpente. Unusual in the sense that its windows were filled with a large collection of tea pots which originated worldwide and which bloomed in an array of colors and designs.

VERSAILLES

Arriving back home late was not a great boon to getting out early the next day to go Versailles. I managed to arrive by late afternoon and took a quick tour of the chateau before its closing (I have visited it before).

The balance of the evening, I spent walking through the extensive gardens. Again, a location which deserves more time than most people allow. Below are just a few images that do not do justice to what should be experienced in person. Come to Paris!

I hope to return, if time permits, to see more of the gardens, especially near closing when most of crowds have gone.

No specific schedule yet for the next few days. Tuesday (Mardi), is a closing day for most museums, so I will have to do something else. I will check my list. Is anyone following the developments of the Tour de France?

ADVISORY

For anyone coming to Paris before 22 August, please be aware that there is track work being done on RER C between Invalides and Gare Austerlitz. Unless you are unaware, it does not complicate getting to Versailles, but is still doable by using metro line #10 for connecting to the RER C at Javel. Also, buying a Versailles Passeport through FNAC, or SNCF, will save you a few euro. Do not know these acronyms? FNAC is a large ticket seller and source for other merchandise: www.fnacspectacles.com/ (French only, but not too difficult to follow). SNCF is the national rail service: www.sncf.com/en_EN/flash/

A Random Selection of Photos

2009-07-18T09:28:00.033-04:00

THE PROPHET has been relocated from the Luxembourg Garden (shown in April 2009) to the rear of the Eglise de la Madeleine (July 2009). I believe he still gets lots of attention.

A familiar icon visible from many locations in Paris. This particular view is from the Terrasse (8th floor) of Au Printemps (Maison bldg).

Two views of the Brasserie Printemps (Mode bldg.)

On a walk along Rue de l’Arbalète (5th), which crosses Rue Mouffetard, many blank walls have been used as canvas for different artists. I’ve seen other work by Jef Aerosol in other parts of the Latin Quarter.

Tonight I join a friend, and friends of the friend, to see the lighting effects produced Chartres Cathedral. Tomorrow, I take the train to Versailles for the day, to see the chateau and gardens.

This rose bloomed at my door yesterday. It had been a small bud on the day that I arrived.

Addendum and Answers; Bastille Day

2009-07-16T17:57:00.017-04:00

Addendum: The name of the Mexican restaurant mentioned in the last entry is, Anahua Calli, Especialdades Mexicanas, 30 rue des Bernardins, Paris 75005, Metro Maubert. On Rue Bernardins, south of Quai Montebello/Quai de la Tournelle and near the corner with Blvd. Saint-Germain.

Question: Why consider eating Mexican food rather than French food in Paris?
Answer: One, since I grew up in Texas, I’m familiar with it. Two, the use of certain spices and peppers in the cooking appeals to me. I passed a local restaurant yesterday which indicated by window sign that it served French food. An additional placard states that oignon soupe and escargot bourguignon are items on offer. I’ve noted such notifications before and wondered why it was necessary to provide them.

Question: Why mention riding buses at the exclusion of riding the metro?
Answer: One, I also use the metro; particularly if there is a time constraint. I arrived in the city by metro, using a few escalators, about three long walkways (stand to the right), and I was happy that there was only one flight of stairs to be mounted with heavy luggage. Two, you see much more of Paris above ground when heading out for a museum or dinner, or sightseeing. It is much more pleasurable; worth learning the way the system operates; and the same tickets are used for the buses (now transfers are allowed),

BASTILLE DAY PARADE
Also referred to as the Republican Day parade, as it was essentially a military parade. India’s Prime Minister, Manmohan Singh, and some Indian regiments (about 400 men (women?)), were invited to participate. The French Republic wished to commemorate the participation of India’s soldiers in the two world wars.

After the parade, I had the delight of watching the Prime Minister’s motorcade pass me as I waited for a bus on Blvd. Saint-Germain. White-helmeted-and-gloved motorcycle policemen rode before and after the motorcade, one roared by at TOP speed in the bus lane to catch up. The motorcade could be identified as the Indian PM’s because the Indian flag flutteried on the front of a car. The PM must have been in one of the four black limousines which passed.

Parade: I feel I need to describe the parade as I experienced it. This was quite in a jumbled manner, sights and sounds, this and that, adding up to the whole experience. It began with the decision to go and the “metro” ride to get there (bus transportation was halted). I was soon caught up in the stream of merging people as the metro neared the site of the parade on the Champs-Élysées. An orderly, patient crowd, about 15 broad at the platform exit at CE/Clemenceau (no.1 line) narrowed to about 6 or 8 people as it proceeded up a non-functioning escalator and stairs for the exit to the street. The ubiquitous barricades hemmed in the spectators. At first, I and many others squirreled around the plaza in front of the metro exit. I had hoped to move further east down the Champs-Élysées, but had to go in the other direction, jockeying for a position as close to the front as possible.

Luckily the nicely-shaped trees provided shade from the bright sun at 10:00 a.m. At about 5 deep, I could NOT see anything. I briefly glimpsed the passage of fighter jets streaming blue-white-red colored smoke. The parade was accompanied by marshal music from speakers attached to every other tree. (An interesting selection of music, including a piece I recognized by Wagner.) Every so often, I could see the tops of caps, the rigid round-shaped brimmed ones. Then, the tops of military (and police) equipment: trucks, tanks, emergency vehicles, etc. The loud rumbling noise of these vehicles was more apparent to me, though. I sensed excitement in the spectators and listened to the cheers as certain formations of men/women passed but not who they were. They obviously could be identified; I even saw someone with what looked like a program held by a man who inquired of a policeman at the end if the parade was over.

I stood in place as long as I could before wandering through the assembled spectators. Some were piqué nicking on the grass, some let their small children frolic in a nearby fountain. Some had taken up vantage points back from the front lines, on ladders, various park equipment, where you could just see the tops of things as they passed. There was emergency first-aid available from the Croix Rouge. And, of course, plenty of uniformed men keeping watchful eyes on the crowds. Just people doing what they do in such circumstances.

At the end, several helicopters flew over the route, I imagine in some type of formation. I only heard them. A short time later, I presume as the official end of the festivities, people not under the trees spotted blue-white-red parachutes descending from high in the sky. (no, I do not know where or if they landed safely.)

I found a bench to rest and to wait for the dispersion of the crowd. Then, there was the trek back; no buses until after a certain time and the particular metro line found along the way was not convenient.

So, all and all, I’m glad I attended the parade. As for “journalistic” reviews, a photo of President Nicolas Sarkozy’s participation appeared in a International Herald Tribune, global edition, Wednesday, 15 July 2009 page 3 (World News). It shows him ironically with his left hand slightly inserted into the opening of his jacket above the button. I wonder who at the Tribune okayed this particular image from among hundreds.

Being Thursday, I’ve been in Paris a week now. I’m using the day to catch up. Weather is splendid and I will be going out later this afternoon but have no particular plan. However, I have finally re-assembled a list of things to do and see (the first list was left behind in New York), and will proceed from tomorrow in a more focused way for the next three weeks.

I’ve taken a bit more your time today -- Thank you. Comments are welcome.

Bus 47, Where Are You?

2009-07-14T18:42:00.012-04:00

Today the sun is shining so very bright through my window that I had to put down the shade. If I were not tired from getting to, being at, then getting back from the Bastille Day parade this morning, I would pick a place to go to enjoy more daylight. Just to mention it, yesterday was cloudy, dark and dreary, even though it did not actually rain. Not in the least inspiring.

This was the opposite of the day before, Sunday, at Jardin des Plantes. The flowers, plants and trees were that much more glorious because it was sunny. Let me point out a few instances. My favorite was the spiky green bulbous stalks. Commonly known as Cardère Découpée. The spikes were hard, and at some stage there will be tiny light blue flowers blooming from the bulb; this was only partially evident on one of the stalks. The flower beds down the center walkway were planted by color which made it especially attractive. Yellow sunflowers, yellow marigolds, yellow daisies with dark centers. Can you visualize this?

And along the way, I happened to pass this little family.
Bus 47, Where Are You? Dear friends, it is not that Karen was lost again. The bus stop was no where to be found. Monday afternoon went like this without my blue bus guide: I had decided to do some sightseeing by bus to try out my Navigo pass. The first time I used it, it was “validez”. I like the ease and convenience of using it.

Well then, as I believe you all know, buses rarely travel a direct route. I first got off Bus 47 near the Pompidou Centre. The street is one way (Sebastopol); I will need another street going back. I walk to Hotel de Ville, my intended destination, and because I know there is a stop near there. I looked at the displays recently installed to demonstrate different types of ecological plants and ways of planting. I was under-whelmed.

But, . . . you guessed it, the sky starts to clear. It’s 9:00p.m. Okay, the bus stop is not there, let me go this way. I walk along one quay, pass the rear of Notre Dame and across one bridge. I know where I am, but where do I find the bus stop for Bus 47.

Eventually, I reached Rue Monge by going along Blvd. Saint Germain. I spotted a bus stop and reached the apartment just before 11:00 p.m. Thus, the abbreviated blog session yesterday. One good thing came of this circuitous walk: I passed a restaurant that specializes in Mexican food. It was filled up at 10:15ish; that’s always a good sign. I plan to give it a try before I leave.

Could this happen again,? It’s so much fun, but I think I’m getting better at it. I will stop here to work on some photos and describe today’s parade in another post. Thanks for following my rant.

Rue Mouffetard

2009-07-13T20:24:00.013-04:00

Sunday was an absolutely delightful day. Starting with breakfast at a café near the end Rue Mouffetard (bottom of the hill), the assembled patrons and I were serenaded by song and music nearby. Apparently, this is a regular event for Sundays. All who participated seemed to enjoy themselves as well as those on the sidelines, including me with my camera.

But, I had to get my grocery shopping done, so I proceeded up Rue Mouffetard to do so. An experience in itself not worth dwelling on. However, for everything that I selected at the grocery store, the total bill did surprise me. It would have cost more than a third more for the same items at home. Cheese, eggs and bread were bought separately at different shops. Hmmm, odorous, tasty cheese. Chewy bread. And wonderful ripe cherries and sweet peaches, with a tomato and some lettuce for a salad.

Then, it started to rain harder. I managed to get back to the apartment with my bundles without getting too wet.

To confuse everyone, however, it was bright and sunny within an hour. So, I decided to spent the afternoon wandering around the nearby Jardin des Plantes.

Would like to chat more, but I must get up early tomorrow for the Republican Day parade commemorating Bastille Day. Will fill you in later about Sunday afternoon (warm and sunny) at the park, and Monday as the first day using my Navigo transportation card.

Another Event Scheduled

2009-07-11T19:40:00.014-04:00

Indeed, the Anselm Kiefer opera was as intriguing as I expected. The stage set was an echo of his latest style. The music was not strange to my ears as some in the audience, at the end, indicated by their booing. The music by Jörg Widmann, a young fellow, reminded me of Lou Harrison’s , which is best described as atonal, but appealing. Or, maybe a few people thought the conception of the opera (also by Kiefer), was too non-traditional. I will admit that the sequences were infrequently broken by some action, and that you were left to admire the stage set for far too long. I’m curious about any reviews which may have appeared in the French press.

Sorry, to bore those who may not be interested. One reason for going was to see the inside of the Opéra Bastille, which we had passed many times, but never entered. It was quite magnificent, modern (in a forward looking sense), and now celebrating its 20th anniversary.
I walked back to my apartment as it was only 9:30 pm, but still light out. The contrast between the different neighborhoods becomes apparent as you cross boundaries; for example, from the right bank of Seine (location of Bastille) to the left bank (the Latin Quarter) where I am staying. Not only does the architecture change, but the type of businesses change. It was dark by the time I reached my area and, I must admit, I passed my navigational landmark (the metro station). I walked several blocks further than I needed too; I knew this when a broad boulevard sprung up that shouldn’t have been there. Ha! What did I do? I saw light to read a map by in a nearby brasserie. I ordered a coffee and reconnoitered. It was as I mentioned, my landmark looked different at night. Amazing, simply amazing. I also discovered a Starbucks Coffee. Do I dare say that, in the land of splendid espresso and café crème, I dare not step into a Starbucks.

Today was less strenuous,. I went to see the Andy Warhol exhibition at the Grand Palais. It centered around his portrait paintings and silk screens (the Marilyns, the Maos, etc.), self-portraits and portraits commissioned by others, spanning his entire career. Like all ambitious shows of this type, visual fatigue becomes apparent before you reach the end. It was good to see the works up close to examine Warhol’s technique and use of color. You are also reminded that Warhol’s art existed during a specific period in art history, in the second half of the 20th century. Where were you in 1972? 1985?
Interior Stairways of the Grand Palais

As I’m not pressed for time, I sat, first in the park near the Grand Palais, then at a bus stop on the Champs Elysees. The tri-colored buntings on every light pole signal that a parade is in the offering for Bastille Day, July 14th. Many events are scheduled and I hope to get to some of them, especially the fireworks around the Eiffel Tower.

For today, though, I enjoyed my bus ride back to my apartment, stopping for lunch along the way. Tomorrow, I will walk over to Rue Mouffetard to stock up fruits and vegetables, maybe some cheese. Question for everyone -- what is the best way to eat an entire baguette (or half) by yourself?

Several Days

2009-07-10T10:15:00.011-04:00

My departure Wednesday was harried and rushed. I have yet to master the skill of a smooth exit: no fevered brow, no thoughts of what is forgotten or keeping the car driver waiting. I only managed two out of three this time. Next time I will not forget anything.

Airport check-in presented no real problems. I was only six pounds overweight. I knew my suitcase was heavy, but the removal of Einstein’s biography by Walter Isaacson and my toothbrush (almost forgotten) reduced the weight to two pounds over. Then I was okay to go without paying $150.00. Luckily , I was carrying a small backpack for overflow items.

So, that was how Wednesday proceeded, except for having my seat selection changed on the Dulles to Charles de Gaulle segment of my trip. I would never recommend sitting next to the toilet by choice.

Thursday: PARIS! The RER train (euro 8.50) into the city was quite short as I was on board a direct train that only made a few stops. Gare du Nord, then Chatelet-Les Halles, my stop. I would like to state, at this point, that Parisians are quite generous. Many times I was asked if I needed help with my bag (heavy) up the escalator, down or up the stairs, or I was given an assisted lift onto the metro train. This happened even though everyone seemed to be going somewhere in haste, at 10:00 a.m.

Emerging from underground revealed sunny, partly cloudy skies. The temperature was quite pleasant, about 75°F. My studio apartment is situated in the Latin Quarter, just east of Rue Moufffetard, a major market street. On previous trips with my husband, we did not see much of the quarter beyond Rue Mouffetard. It is quite picturesque and I’m looking forward to exploring it. I have read that it is one area of Pars that has not changed very much compared to, for example, St. Germain-des-Prés, or the Marais.

Friday, today, I need to go now. The skies are sunny and partly cloudy again; temperature is pleasantly warm. Will be walking in the Marais and Bastille areas, as I have tickets for an Anselm Kiefer-staged opera celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Opéra Bastille. I’m hoping it will be quite as intriguing as Kiefer’s art.

Above is the door to my adventures. More tomorrow or in a few days. Please post any questions or comments.

Twenty-Four Hours to Departure

2009-07-07T13:09:00.017-04:00

The countdown is on. I have just 24 hours until my departure for Paris and, as usual, the packing still needs to be done. It's all in piles around the apartment, not in the suitcase.

I say to myself, "soon you will joining the crowds at the Eiffel Tower, to see an exhibit celebrating its 120 years of existance. There is also much ado at the Hotel de Ville." And, I hope to see the fireworks and concert on the Champ de Mars on Bastille Day, July 14th. It will be my first time joining the festivities.

Before then, though, I will probably have been to the Louvre. I intend to spend several days revisiting my favorite paintings and sculptures.

Ah! Paris is so lovely near sunset. Back to you in a few days, if not sooner.

Welcome

2009-07-03T20:13:00.007-04:00

A week from today, I will be starting my stay in Paris for about one month. I will try to keep you updated on my activities while I'm there. Although my husband and I have been to Paris a number of times, there is always more to see. It's not unlike trying to see all of New York City in one week. This time, I want to see new areas of Paris, revisit a few we've seen before, like the Luxembourg Garden, and along the way learn a bit more about the city and its history. Plus, I will be taking lots of photos.

My research into events occurring in Paris has revealed many, many things to do. I may have a tough time choosing between one museum, concert, restaurant and another, but I will not be lacking for something to satisfy my curiosity and quest for the interesting. I will keep you posted.